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追漢服的小萬姑娘

2022-12-22 14:35:10 來源:環(huán)球人物網(wǎng) 作者:黃先懿
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追漢服的小萬姑娘
萬潔和女兒十月。
  “同袍”,語出《詩經(jīng)·秦風(fēng)·無衣》,“豈曰無衣,與子同袍”。這里的“同袍”指的是戰(zhàn)友。而在現(xiàn)代漢服愛好者之間,亦多以“同袍”互稱,既有互稱戰(zhàn)友,共襄此舉的勉勵,又暗示了此處的“袍”即漢服。
  漢服,指的是漢民族的服飾,其基本特點是褒衣大袖,右衽系帶。據(jù)媒體2022年3月報道,成都是當(dāng)之無愧的“中國漢服第一城”,僅成都市區(qū)就有20多萬“同袍”,以15-35歲的年輕人居多,人數(shù)全國最多,成都的漢服商家數(shù)量、品牌和銷量也在全國名列前茅。
  成都發(fā)達(dá)的漢服生態(tài)圈,吸引了諸多漢服愛好者,漢服博主“小萬姑娘”也是其中之一。“小萬姑娘”本名萬潔,曾是一名“95后”女兵,退伍后和朋友開設(shè)了一間攝影工作室。2018年初,在一次拍攝中,她偶然接觸到漢服,拍攝的視頻得到了很多網(wǎng)友的傳播和點贊,也勾起了她對漢服的興趣。
  2018年,“小萬姑娘”來到成都,穿著漢服走上街頭,發(fā)現(xiàn)路人中不乏穿著漢服的“同袍”,一種契合感和歸屬感擊中了她,“穿漢服走在街頭,不會有人投來異樣的目光,反而被羨慕”。她當(dāng)即決定,來成都創(chuàng)業(yè)。
  在萬潔看來,漢服不僅僅是一種服飾,還承載著深厚的傳統(tǒng)文化。每到傳統(tǒng)佳節(jié),“同袍”們就會舉辦熱鬧的漢服出行活動,比如元宵觀燈、端午祭屈原、七夕相親、中秋拜月等,規(guī)模都相當(dāng)可觀。萬潔萌生了通過短視頻傳播漢服文化的念頭。她惡補(bǔ)漢服知識,從網(wǎng)上的論壇、資料到專業(yè)文獻(xiàn)、書籍,從袁杰英的《中國歷代服飾史》到沈從文的《中國古代服飾研究》,一頁頁地啃。學(xué)透、消化后再拍攝短視頻,展示漢服之美,科普漢服知識,由此開始了漢服博主之路。如今,她已有500多萬粉絲,很多人留言說“因為小萬姑娘入了漢服坑”,她也因此獲得了成就感和堅持下去的動力。
  2019年,萬潔成為一名母親。女兒出生后,粉絲紛紛留言期待看到小萬姑娘和女兒一起穿漢服的樣子。她在網(wǎng)上、線下到處逛,也沒能找到適合嬰兒穿的漢服。“既然當(dāng)下沒有人做嬰兒漢服,那自己就把這塊地好好播種一番。”此后,她開始了成人、嬰兒漢服的同步制作。
  從短視頻創(chuàng)作者跨行到漢服設(shè)計制作,對萬潔來說是一項全新的挑戰(zhàn)。原創(chuàng)設(shè)計、材料選擇、打版繡花,每一道工序都是難題。“每個環(huán)節(jié)都會有很多雷、很多坑,只能一步一步去踩。”萬潔說,在部隊當(dāng)兵的兩年,培養(yǎng)了她勇往直前、堅毅不屈的性格,面對困難的時候不會逃避和害怕,而是想辦法解決它。
  創(chuàng)業(yè)初期,萬潔幾乎全年無休,一心撲在漢服上,邊學(xué)邊干。當(dāng)?shù)谝惶子H子漢服穿上身時,滿滿的成就感瞬間將長期的勞累一掃而光,和女兒一起拍攝的短視頻還俘獲了一撥年輕媽媽粉絲。
  為了讓漢服真正融入大眾生活,萬潔除了制作符合傳統(tǒng)形制的漢服外,還進(jìn)行風(fēng)格化漢服的探索,在吸取傳統(tǒng)文化的同時加入現(xiàn)代審美,從設(shè)計、面料上進(jìn)行改良。
  2020年,新冠肺炎疫情發(fā)生后,萬潔帶領(lǐng)團(tuán)隊設(shè)計了一款名為“生機(jī)”的漢服,豎領(lǐng)大襟長衫、云肩和馬面裙上,繡著武漢地標(biāo),黃鶴樓、櫻花、燕子……“希望通過漢服描繪一個春意盎然、生機(jī)勃勃的武漢,向社會傳遞正能量。”她說。
  與此同時,萬潔還不斷創(chuàng)新短視頻內(nèi)容。她嘗試把漢服與劇情、變裝、文旅相結(jié)合,圍繞漢服如何融入當(dāng)代人生活進(jìn)行探索,再根據(jù)網(wǎng)友的反饋不斷改善升級。如今,她的團(tuán)隊已經(jīng)從最初自己單槍匹馬擴(kuò)大到了近百人。
  在創(chuàng)業(yè)道路上,萬潔乘上了成都“引才”的東風(fēng)。近年來,成都不斷加強(qiáng)政策創(chuàng)新,招引人才尤其是青年人才,打造宜商宜居的環(huán)境,搭建激發(fā)人才活力的創(chuàng)新平臺,助力青年在成都筑夢追夢圓夢。
  青年是推動經(jīng)濟(jì)社會發(fā)展、科技創(chuàng)新、鄉(xiāng)村振興的主力軍和突擊隊,大力支持青年創(chuàng)新創(chuàng)業(yè)是關(guān)鍵。近些年,共青團(tuán)成都市委在深入了解青年創(chuàng)新創(chuàng)業(yè)就業(yè)需求現(xiàn)狀基礎(chǔ)上,推出各種舉措,為青年人群創(chuàng)新創(chuàng)業(yè)提供廣闊舞臺?!肚嗄陝?chuàng)業(yè)城市活力報告(2021)》顯示,成都位居青年創(chuàng)業(yè)者期望創(chuàng)業(yè)城市全國第二,逐漸成為青年創(chuàng)業(yè)落地的新選擇。
  此外,成都市對退役軍人的扶持,比如減稅政策等,也給了萬潔不少支持。2021年,她還參加了第二屆四川省退役軍人創(chuàng)業(yè)創(chuàng)新大賽,并榮獲三等獎。她說,這場比賽讓更多人看到退役軍人創(chuàng)業(yè)的努力和過程,也激勵他們不斷前行,幫助他們獲得資源。
  就這樣,在政府支持、政策鼓勵下,萬潔一路向前,在夢想之路上奔跑。今年5月,共青團(tuán)成都市委、成都市青年聯(lián)合會授予她“成都青年五四獎?wù)?rdquo;。
  回顧過往,萬潔說,創(chuàng)業(yè)之初趕上了互聯(lián)網(wǎng)經(jīng)濟(jì)騰飛的天時,而成都這座城市則為她提供了地利與人和。“成都重視傳統(tǒng)文化的傳承與創(chuàng)新,對我們的創(chuàng)業(yè)提供了政策支持和幫助,同時成都又是人才濟(jì)濟(jì)、時尚青年匯聚的城市,我們的團(tuán)隊大部分都是‘90后’‘95后’,非常有活力。”
  談及未來,萬潔很堅定,自己作為一個傳統(tǒng)文化的新媒體創(chuàng)業(yè)者,將以漢服為載體去傳播中國的優(yōu)秀傳統(tǒng)文化?,F(xiàn)在,她和團(tuán)隊正在探索跨境電商領(lǐng)域,希望能讓產(chǎn)品和文化一起出海,實現(xiàn)“把經(jīng)典變?yōu)榱餍?,讓民族走向世?rdquo;的愿景。
  “以前穿上軍裝是保家衛(wèi)國,后來褪去軍裝穿上漢服,去傳承和弘揚中國文化,我1覺得也是很自豪的。”萬潔說。(黃先懿)

  "Tongpao"is from Book of Songs·Odes of Qin·No Clothes,specifically from the phrase"Never say you don't have any clothes to wear,for I'd share my campaign gown with you".Here,"tongpao"refers to comrades in arms.Modern Hanfu lovers also call each other"tongpao",which not only means they are comrades in arms and they have common ambition,but also indicate that the"pao"here refers to Hanfu.
追漢服的小萬姑娘
Wan Jie and her daughter Shi Yue were appreciating flowers wearing parent-kid Hanfu.
  Hanfu,meaning the costume of Han Chinese,mainly features loose robe with large sleeves and lacing covering up the right lapel.According to the report by Oriental Outlook in March 2022,Chengdu is the"City of Hanfu in China".In the downtown area of Chengdu,there are over 20 thousand"tongpaos",mainly young people between 15 and 35,making Chengdu the city with most population of Hanfu in China and rank top nationwide in the number of Hanfu shops and Hanfu brands as well as in the sales volume.
  Chengdu's advanced Hanfu circle attracts a large number of Hanfu lovers.Lady Wan,a Hanfu blogger,was one of them.Lady Wan,real name Wan Jie,was a demobilized post-1995 female soldier who has established a photography studio with her friends.At the beginning of 2018,when she was making a video,she came into contact with Hanfu.The video got widely spread and praised by net users,which also sparkled her interest in Hanfu.
  In 2018,Lady Xiaowan came to Chengdu,worn Hanfu and walked down the street.She found that there were many other"tongpaos"wearing Hanfu among the pedestrians,which arouses her senses of fitting and belonging."Walking down the street wearing Hanfu makes others be envious of,rather than feel strange with you."Immediately,she decided to start her business in Chengdu.
  In Wan Jie's opinion,Hanfu is a costume that also carries profound traditional culture.On every traditional festival,"tongpaos"would hold lively and large-scaled Hanfu activities,such as lantern viewing on Lantern Festival,offering sacrifice to Qu Yuan on Dragon Boat Festival,blind date on Qixi Festival,moon worshipping on Mid-Autumn Festival,etc.Wan Jie also came up with an idea to disseminate Hanfu culture through short videos.She crammed up knowledge about Hanfu,by viewing and learning from online forums and information material and professional literature and books.She also read page by page the literature,like Yuan Jieying's A History of Chinese Costumes of Dynasties and Shen Congwen's A Research on Chinese Ancient Costume.After fully getting good grasp of the knowledge,she started tofilm short videos to display the beauty of Hanfu,popularize knowledge about Hanfu and started her career as a Hanfu blogger.Sofar,she already has had over 5 million fans.Many would leave her comments like"I started to fall in love with Hanfu because of Lady Xiaowan".She also derive a sense of achievement and the motivation to move ahead from these comments.
追漢服的小萬姑娘
Wan Jie was taking photos of the display of Hanfu.
  In 2019,Wan Jie became a mother.After the birth of her daughter,her fans commented that they looked forward to seeing Lady Xiaowan and her daughter together wear Hanfu.She sought for the Hanfu for babies online and offline,but never to find it."Since no one is currently making any baby Hanfu,I should cultivate this field where no one has set foot on yet."After that,she began to go on simultanously to make Hanfu both for adults and babies.
  From creating short videos to designing and making Hanfu,Wan Jie was confronted with entirely new challenges.Original design,material selection,template making,and embroidery.Each procedure was not easy at all."There were so many uncertainties in each procedure,and I had to have a try one by one,"said Wan Jie.The two year military service has developed her courage,perseverance and persistence.In face of hardship,she would attempt to find ways to overcome it rather than escaping or getting afraid.
  In the early stage of her business,Wan Jie nearly had n o vacation throughout the year,and she committed herself fully to Hanfu,learning it as she went along.As she and her daughter put on the first set of parent-kid Hanfu she made,she felt full of sense of achievement which immediately cleared away her long-time tiredness.The short videos that she made together with her daughter also captured a bunch of young-mother fans.
  In order to truly integrate Hanfu into public life,Wan Jie also explores the design of stylized Hanfu,in addition to making the Hanfu that complies with the traditional forms.While absorbing the traditional culture,the Hanfu is also made according to modern aesthetics,with improvement in design and fabric.
  In 2020,after COVID-19 outbreak,Wan Jie led her team in designing a Hanfu named"Vitality",which is a long gown that has vertical collar and large lapel,cappa and horse-face skirt,with embroidery patterns of Wuhan landmarks,Yellow Crane Tower,cherry blossoms,and swallows,etc.on the gown."We wish to depict Wuhan in lively spring and full of vitality through this Hanfu,so as to deliver positive energy to the society,"she said.
  In the meantime,Wan Jie never stopped creating new short videos.She tried to combine Hanfu with stories,costume play and cultural tourism and explored the way to integrate Hanfu with modern life,thereby making improvement on the Hanfu according to netizens'feedback.Today,her team has expanded to around 100 members,while at first,she worked alone.
  On the road of entrepreneurship,Wan Jie also benefited from Chengdu's"Talent Introduction Program",from which she received a ton of help.In recent years,Chengdu consistently enhanced policy innovation,attracted talent,especially young ones,created an environment suitable for both business and living,and established an innovative platform to stimulate the vitality of talent and assist young people with pursuing their dreams here in Chengdu.
追漢服的小萬姑娘
Wan Jie and her daughter Shi Yue were on journey wearing parent-kid Hanfu.
  Young people are the main force and storm troops in promoting economic and social development,technological innovation,and rural revitalization.Therefore,it's critical to provide large support for young people's innovation and entrepreneurship.In the past few years,the Chengdu Municipal Committee of the Communist Youth League released measures after learning about the current situation and needs of young people's innovation and entrepreneurship in an in-depth way to provide a great platform for those young people.It's shown in the Youth Venture Urban Vitality Report(2021)that Chengdu ranks second nationwide in terms of the city that young entrepreneurs wish to start in.Chengdu
  is gradually becoming the new choice for youth entrepreneurship.
  What's more,Chengdu also provides support for veterans,such as the tax deduction program,which also helped Wan Jie a lot.In 2021,she participated in the 2nd Sichuan Veterans Innovation and Entrepreneurship Competition and won the third prize.She said that this contest made more people see veterans'efforts and process of entrepreneurship,and also encouraged them to move forward nonstop and helped them acquire resources.
  That's how Wan Jie keeps advancing on the road to her dream with the support of governments and the encouragement provided by the policies.This May,the Chengdu Municipal Committee of the Communist Youth League and the Chengdu Youth Federation granted her"Chengdu Youth May 4th Medal".
  Looking back on her experience,Wan Jie said she was lucky to catch up to the boost of Internet-based economy at the beginning of her business,and Chengdu provided her with the necessary geographic and cultural conditions."Chengdu puts great stress on the heritage and innovation of traditional culture,which helps our entrepreneurship with policy support and assistance.Moreover,Chengdu is a city full of talent and fashionable young lives.Most members of our team are post-90s and post-95.They are very lively."
  Speaking of the future,Wan Jie said in an assertive tone that she,as a new media entrepreneur of traditional culture,will spread Chinese excellent traditional culture with Hanfu as the carrier.Nowadays,she and her team are exploring the field of cross-border e-commerce,wishing to export their products as well as the culture and realize the vision of"turning classics into fashion and making national culture global".
  "In the past,I wore millitary uniform to guard our homeland.Now,I wear Hanfu to inherite and carry forward Chinese culture.I'm pretty proud of myself,"said Wan Jie.
  
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